Monday, March 12, 2012

Minoru Muslin

Just a quick post to show you my Minoru jacket muslin. I've had a very productive weekend sewing-wise, but also studying-wise and training-wise. Saturday I powered through my university work for 9 hours straight, and Sunday I went on a 18-km trail run with my Running Club, followed by mandatory tapas and wine. What a great weekend.

I'm über excited about this pattern. Sewaholic really doesn't disappoint.

I will be cutting a size or two bigger from the muslin to make sure I have enough room for multiple sweaters underneath. The muslin does look good, but it feels too tight around the shoulders. A coat in which you can't move (i.e. hold on to the ceiling bar in the subway) is not a good coat.
I will also be lengthening the coat for my longer torso and extending the hood to accommodate my hair in a ponytail.
Other than that, no major modifications. I love Sewaholic!

Aside from the Minoru, I've been spending quite a bit of time working on my bodice block. (I know my aunt Nicole is either laughing or pulling her hair right now if she is reading. She thinks I'm too perfectionist, but I say "if something's worth doing, it's worth doing well".)

Initially, I had made my bodice block from a commercial pattern by making multiple muslins and altering the pattern again and again and again (and again). Recently, I realised my bodice block lacked the precision I needed to really venture into pattern-cutting (or pattern-drafting). This winter, I tried playing with the darts a bit, using Armstrong's Patternmaking for Fashion Design, and realised my bust points were off, among other problems.

I had no other options but to take a deep breath and start over with the bodice block process. I decided to go for the eSewingWorkshop method, after having such good results with them in the past. Remember the great pants I made with them? They really fit like a glove, off the bat. Now I wonder if this was maybe because the people I made it for had rather standard proportions...

Muslin 1: So I drafted the bodice block, and later realised that ease was not built into it. I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure this out, but I did manage to figure it out. (I may do a post on that at a later point.)

Muslin 2: After redrafting the pattern with ease, I realised it was made for a B-cup, and that I had to perform a SBA. This really disappointed me: Cup size seems to me like a pretty key information to include in the bodice block drafting method. You'd think it would have taken it into account? This has definitely taken the shine off of eSewingWorkshop.

For now, I'm taking a little break from the bodice block to cool my head and to focus on the Minoru jacket. 


  1. The jacket looks great! Check out

    She is doing a post every so often, maybe you will find it to be helpful!

    1. Thanks Christina! Will look into that!

  2. Wow, you are super busy. Taking classes, going on runs, studying, eating tapas, making a bodice block, a toile of the Minoru. Phew! Good luck with the jacket. It really is a great pattern.

    1. Yeah, for me super busy. For you "just another weekend in the life of Karen".

  3. You have been such a busy bee, how did you fit all that fun, sewing and work into one weekend! Superhero! Your Minoru is looking great, can't wait to see it modified and made up in your fashion fabric!!!


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